And how you can help your leash-reactive dog.

Does your dog lunge, bark, strain at the end of the leash, or generally lose control at the sight of dogs, people, bikes, squirrels, cats, or skateboards (or more) when on leash?

If that sounds like your pup, you have probably been told you have a "leash-reactive dog." But what does it mean if a dog is leash reactive?

First, let's look at the definition of the word "reactive"

Reactivity means "showing a response to a stimulus."

As a dog trainer, I love this definition. It's simple and concise. Many people assume a leash-reactive dog is automatically aggressive and/or afraid. While this can be the case, it isn't always. Reactive behavior is simply a dog reacting or usually overreacting to a stimulus in the environment based on his or her current emotional state.

What are dogs feeling in reactive moments?

Dogs reacting to stimulus are usually in one or a combination of these emotional states before, during and directly after their reactive behavior: frustration, arousal, excitement, fear, anger, or possibly physical pain.

Not all dogs who are reactive are aggressive. In fact, most leash-reactive dogs I work with are not aggressive toward people or dogs. The leash-reactive behavior they're displaying is motivated by emotion in the moment but can be informed by past experiences.

Dogs who are leash reactive to other dogs are not all alike; they range from very dog social when off leash to dog tolerant, dog selective, and dog aggressive. The same is true with dog reactivity to people and other stimulus.

Let's talk about different leash-reactive dogs and 3 common kinds of behaviors.

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3 types of leash-reactive behaviors

And what that means for your dog.

1) Frustration or excitement reactivity to other dogs

What about dogs who are dog-social when off leash?

These are the dogs who may have several dog friends, get along well with dogs they meet at the park when off leash, and can make new friends fairly easily. However, even though these dogs naturally greet other dogs gradually and politely in dog terms, when they see dogs on leash, they they pull and bark and are out of control.

Maybe you've allowed some greetings on leash and some go okay but sometimes there is a small scuffle or some growling. Dogs are usually experiencing frustration, excitement, and possibly some conflict when seeing other dogs on leash. Often they really want to get to the other dog but the leash makes them feel constricted from their potential new friend.

Why a leash reactive dog barks

What's different from other types of reactive behavior is the purpose of this barking. It's likely a distance-reducing behavior rather than the usual attempt to increase distance from the stimulus. Often these dogs just really want to say hi and don't know a better way to do it!

What should you not do about your dog's leash reactivity to start?

Frequently, if we have a dog we know is friendly with other dogs, and our dog displays this type of behavior, our instinct is to get them to the dog to let them say hi so they just STOP IT, right? WRONG!!

Here's why from the other dog's perspective

Imagine this, you're walking down the street and a stranger comes running toward you yelling and screaming. You don't understand what they are saying but they are coming fast with outstretched arms, waving, eyes wide and wild. Then they get to you and embrace you, knock you down and hug you. You didn't agree to this at all. How would this make you feel? Frightened? Angry? Confused?

Well, this is what you're doing when you allow your over-excited dog to greet a strange dog. The dog receiving this greeting may become defensive and bark or growl back, or worse try to snap or bite and a fight may break out. It's not unreasonable, I might take a swing at the person running towards me on the street.

Why on leash greetings aren't a good idea for your dog long-term either

Additionally, if allowed to greet whenever or however, excited and friendly dogs are learning that when they act in this manner they get what they want, the thing they most desire, to greet the dog!

All dogs need to learn that other dogs exist, and not only for their enjoyment. Working on some basic management skills can go a long way.

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2) Frustration or excitement reactivity to non-dogs (squirrels, cats, skateboards, bikes, cars, etc.)

If you have a dog who reacts to stimulus in the environment - squirrels, cats, skateboards, bikes, cars etc. - this could be arousal or excitement-based. We will discuss the other option more in the fear section. But if you can't link this behavior to a specific negative experience or you're not seeing obvious signs of fear toward these objects outside of the context of wanting to chase a moving object, it could be an arousal-based reaction.

An instinct in the moment to chase or lunge at this fast-moving object, possibly even off leash, is likely an arousal-based instinct. There could also be a combination of some fear and arousal. That's why these can be tricky ones. Ultimately I would still recommend not allowing your dog to ever chase a fast-moving object that you cannot control as this is a safety issue.

3) Fear-based reactivity to dogs or people

Fear-based reactivity is what we usually imagine when we think of "leash reactivity." These dogs are likely feeling fear, frustration, and possibly arousal at the sight of another dog or in the presence of strangers. The leash causes conflict since it inhibits normal behavior in a fearful situation.

Many dogs go into a stage of "fight" since they're restricted from their first choice "flight." They try to create the distance they want by being vocal, barking, lunging to let the dog know they want them to GET AWAY, and fast. Some dogs see a dog from 100 feet away and need to create this distance, some from across the street.

Every dog will have varying "thresholds" in the presence of stressful stimulus before going "over threshold" and reacting to the stimulus.

That doesn't mean you have an aggressive dog. BUT, if your pup is put in a situation of being nose to nose with another dog or too close to a person while in this emotional state, things could go very badly very quickly.

What your fearful dog wants

Dogs who react in this way are asking for space! They need our help. The function of their behavior is to create space from other dogs. They are asking, in the best way they know how for our help. We should try our best not to punish these dogs in any way. Punishment never helps. Just the opposite - it's highly likely to exacerbate reactivity in dogs. Do not yell, pop the leash, or otherwise hurt your dog emotionally or physically during these events - or ever. Your dog is already stressed and this will only cause more stress.

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What can you do to prevent leash reactivity?

First, identify your dog's threshold

When we talk about a dog being "under threshold" this is the state of being when a dog can be in the presence of the stimulus they may react to (like other dogs), but are not yet too worried or excited by it.

Here is what a dog "under threshold" may look like:

• Loose Body Language
• Easily able to respond to cues
• Soft mouth when taking treats
• Aware of stimulus but not exhibiting reactive behaviors

Here are some warning signs a dog may be close to going "over threshold" or already there

• Difficult to gain attention in presence of stimulus
• Dog is overly focused on stimulus
• Hard mouth when taking treats (bite is harder)
• Stiff body language
• Reactive behavior occurs like barking, lunging, growling etc.

Leash reactivity management strategies

What can you do right now to begin to help your leash reactive dog?

First and foremost, we want to prevent leash reactive behavior from happening. It is stressful for your dog and you to have reactive incidents, and the more the reactive behavior is practiced the more it becomes habit.

Here are some management strategies to start today

Always carry dog treats, and good ones!

Start carrying yummy dog treats on all walks. These should be your dog's favorite treats, not kibble. We want to use these in the beginning of leashed walks to distract our dogs when they see a trigger for their reactive behavior. We want your dog to think trigger equals food instead of trigger equals barking and lunging - this means you need to try to present the treat the moment your dog realizes the trigger is in his/her environment.

Just using food as a distraction is totally okay too while training is in progress!

Create a visual barrier or distance

Sometimes the easiest, in-the-moment thing we can do is hide! If the trigger is very close, or you don't have dog treats or for any number of other reasons, blocking your dog's vision from the likely trigger is always a good option. Cars, bushes, fences and bus stops all make wonderful visual barriers from a dog approaching. Make an emergency u turn and walk the other way if needed as well. Avoidance is always ok.

Watch timing and amount of distance

Figure out how close or far your dog can be to another dog before your pup is in a state where he/she can't pay attention to you anymore (over threshold). This should be before the reaction starts. Your pup should still be able to respond to basic leash training cues. This is the distance you want to create from dogs or other stimulus to keep your dog under threshold.

Walk at quiet times

No matter what your dog is reactive to or what the motivation is, find times to walk when you won't encounter the trigger to your dog's reactivity. This will help your dog learn that all walks don't equal stress and over-excitement. Your dog will NOT get better with more exposure to stressful triggers.

Counter-conditioning and positive experiences will be the ultimate solution for your dog's leash reactivity.

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Walking equipment to make positive associations easier for your dog

For your dog's overall health and everyday comfort, you always want to use a good body harness on walks so your pup isn't damaging neck muscles when pulling or lunging. Not all harnesses are created equal. Choose a dual-clip (front & top/back) y-shaped harness so you have the option of using either one. Front clips can be very effective with many dogs who tend to pull on leash.

Never use a prong, choke, E-collar (shock), or corrective collars for leash reactivity or any type of behavior issue - or ever. Punishment can cause this behavior to increase and cause your dog to find you scary and unpredictable. You should be your dog's safe space.

Once you know how much distance your dog needs, you can keep your dog in a safe, learning zone and the behavior modification process can begin.

How to teach your dog new behaviors to replace negative associations

Let's talk about some behaviors you may want to teach before anything else. Trying to teach a new behavior while your dog is aroused or frightened is not usually successful. You want to lay the groundwork and teach a few behaviors at home before you use them out and about.

1) Getting your dog's attention with eye contact happily and reliably

Teaching your dog that it's a really great thing to pay attention to you and look at you is one of the most valuable behaviors your dog can know, whether reactive or not. This is an "alternative" or "incompatible" behavior to a reactive behavior. That means if your dog is looking at you, the focus is not on the potential trigger and reacting.

What you'll need: your dog, some yummy dog treats, and a clicker or marker word your dog already knows.

Teaching your dog "pay attention or eye contact" behavior

Try this

• Begin with your dog standing in front of you. Take one small treat and show it to your dog, then move the treat up to your face, right between your eyes to encourage your dog to look around the general area of your face, once he/she does, mark/click and reward. 

• Repeat this 10-15 times, with the reward in your hand, luring your dog's attention to your face. 

• Repeat this process moving the food to the side of your head away from your face, encouraging your dog to look away from the treat and at your face/eyes by making a quick noise (kissy noise, tongue click, etc.) ; as soon as your dog looks at you mark/click and reward. 

• Remember that just because your dog looks at you a couple of times, it doesn’t mean your pup yet understands. Repetition is the key to success!

• Whenever your dog actually looks you in the EYES, give a jackpot of treats by feeding several treats in a row. This helps your pup understand that he/she got it right! 

After a few short training sessions, try to “phase out the lure”.  This means, you no longer need to have a treat in your hand to have your dog look at you.

Try this

• Place your finger on your nose like the treat is here, if your dog looks at you, immediately mark/click, and reward and repeat. If your dog is still looking for the treat, you may have moved too fast so repeat a few more times with the treat in your hand. 

• Once your dog is clearly “getting it,” you can add in a “cue” word like “watch or look” so you can ask for eye contact when you want and need it.  To do this, warm up your pup like you normally would with a few repetitions. Then a second before your dog looks at you (this should be a pattern by now) you say “watch or look” and when your pup looks up, immediately mark, treat and repeat! 

Practice this in different locations around the house and on walks while there is nothing exciting or scary around until your dog is reliably performing the behavior.

Putting it into practice out in the world

Using eye contact or attention as an alternative to reactivity can be a wonderful option for you and your dog to have in your skill set. If a potential trigger appears and you're at a distance your dog can handle, you can ask for the alternative of "watch or look" as you pass by or get around the situation and prevent a reaction from your dog. This is a good management strategy and also teaches your dog that looking at you when a scary or exciting stimuli appears is a good thing.

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2) Teach your dog how to U-Turn in a tough spot

Teaching an emergency U-Turn is one of my favorite management techniques for reactive behavior. This simple, yet effective technique helps your dog turn around on a dime and avoid a potentially explosive situation. If taught well, most dogs find this behavior super fun and exciting as well.

A U-Turn is exactly what it sounds like and a great tool to have in your training repertoire:

Try this

• You and your dog are walking forward, and on your cue and with a food lure at your dog's nose, you both instantly turn 180 degrees and move in the opposite direction, where your pup earns a favorite, tasty reward.

• Remember, you want to try to keep moving as you are rewarding your dog - stopping can cause your dog to look back at the very thing you are trying to move away from! Your dog turns because he/she knows your cue (U-Turn or TURN) means: "Quick! We're going to play the turn-around-really-fast-and-go-the-other-way game!" 

Important note when teaching your dog to u-turn

Your dog doesn't turn because of hitting the end of the leash. That increases tension and could elicit the very behavior you're trying to avoid. Your dog turns because he/she knows the game, hears the cue and almost without thinking, wheels away from trouble. 

A U-Turn differs from a Watch/Look cue because you use it when you know your dog will be too emotional to perform a Watch or has already barked or lunged at the trigger. The goal of a U-Turn is to create distance and get you out of sticky situations.

Remember to practice in low-distraction settings first, then move to areas where your dog will have a more difficult time focusing, but make the rewards even better, then practice on actual walks BUT when there is nothing scary in your dog's environment.

Once your dog is responding to the U-Turn cue without hesitation, it's a wonderful management tool. You see a dog, the dog is coming toward you, you say U-TURN in a happy voice, and your dog quickly turns around and looks at you for a yummy treat rather than barking and lunging! Its a win-win.

If you and your dog master both the Watch/Look and the U-Turn, you'll be able to handle most of the situations that life can throw at you!

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Gradual desensitization and counter-conditioning for reactivity in dogs

Counter-conditioning and desensitization are the bread and butter of helping a reactive dog. Learning behaviors like "Watch or Look" with high-value rewards is one example of counter-conditioning and desensitization: pairing the trigger with a positive reinforcer to change how your dog feels in the presence of the trigger.

Once you know how far your dog needs to be from a potential trigger, you can begin to reward your dog each time your pup is safely at that distance and looking at the trigger without reacting. In time your dog learns that: seeing a dog equals cheese (for example).

Remember, if your dog starts reacting, you need to create more distance or stop. The goal is calm behavior in the presence of the trigger with a high rate of rewards.

The importance of management for leash reactivity

Management really is key for leash reactivity since you want to avoid as many reactive incidents as possible during the training process. As you manage and work to desensitize, you will see the distance decreasing and your dog's behavior changing, gradually. You can also find guides dedicated solely to counter-conditioning and desensitization here and here in the Reactivity Channel.

The journey of preventing leash reactivity rarely travels in a constant upward line. Some days will be easier than others and some days your dog will react more strongly and at a greater distance. Be patient and remember, if you need help, ask us here on Dogly!

Next up in the Reactivity Channel on Dogly

Your new leash-reactivity skills should give you and your dog a solid foundation for managing and reducing your dog's leash reactivity. Check out the next guide for more on how you can help your pup be more comfortable and confident on leash - and on your way to calm, happy, loose leash walking in more and more situations.

If you have any questions on how to manage and help stop leash reactivity or other questions about reactivity and your dog, just ask us in our Community Discussion. Continue in our Reactivity Channel where you'll learn everything you need to know for your dog from our community of Dogly Training Advocates.

If you need more personalized dog training guidance, get started in your dog's training plan here.